The New Face of the Iglesia de Lourdes

A front view of Lourdes Church, with kids playing on the plaza.

The 240-year-old Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Lourdes, in the heart of the Chapinero District, was unveiled last month after some three years of renovation. The work on the striking gothic-style was not without controversy, however: the project was criticized for damaging parts of the church, including old stone slabs and installing a beam which altered the building's design. Even the church's priest, Adolfo Vera López, who directed the work, received criticisms for his lack of expertise in restorations.

Still, to my untrained eye, the building looks nice. And it was also nice to see it crowded with faithful this afternoon. 

The virgin. 

The church's interior, during mass.

Church doorways.

'Lourdes, Cultural Capital.'

Archbishop Vicente Arbelaez, who had the church built in 1875, hasn't been treated with great respect.

The tiny park behind the church has also seen better days.

By Mike Ceaser, of Bogotá Bike Tours

Mooching Mongrels

Good master or exploiter, this homeless man in Chapinero found a way to turn these stray dogs into a profit stream. Unfortunately, I suspect that the coins this guy collects go to wine or drugs, and that the food that he and his four-footed friends eat comes from the garbage cans.

I've seen variations on the theme in Bogotá, including one set of dogs trained to carry bowls in their mouths and approach diners in outdoor restaurants. But I was once approached by a guy leading a dog with a festering sore on its side and begging for money for the dog's medical treatment. That beggar was too delicate, I guess, to mutilate himself. More photos of human-canine relationships here.

The Musicians' 'Beach'

Ready for a Vallenato?

No, there's no beach in 2,600-meter Bogotá. But there is a 'playa' in the Chapinero neighborhood, where three afternoons each week musicians wait for work.

Mariachi man

Seeking Mariachis? Vallenatos? A harp or an accordian? Don't bother with Craigslist: Your musicos are awaiting you at 55th St. and 14th Ave., just outside the Transmilenio station.

The musicians said they usually wait on Thursday, Friday and Saturday afternoons. They charge by the hour, and aren't cheap - get ready to pay several hundred thousand pesos per hour.

If you're gonna throw a party, but want to save the trip out to Chapinero, these musicians do have telephones:

Carmenza Monterrey y su Mariachi
Cel: 321-429-9661

El Aventurero y su Mariachi Aguilas de Mexico
Cels: 310-201-6302/ 300-560-1685/316-285-9617

Henry Noguera y su mariachi, los Mensajeros de Guadalajara
Cel: 321-248-6282/ 320-219-1168

Man with accordian for rent

These guys got work.

Mariachi men

By Mike Ceaser, of Bogota Bike Tours

Chapinero, Bogotá's Gay Neighborhood

Brokeback mountain cafe bar

Chapinero is one of Bogotá's largest neighborhoods, and well known for its nightlife, shopping and gay community. The best known nightclub is probably the Theotron. For a conservative, Catholic nation, Colombia has surprisingly progressive laws for same-sex couples: they can register civil unions, inherit from each other and receive each other's pensions. However, strangely and shamefully, and perhaps due to oversight, Colombia recently abstained during a United Nations vote which removed the category of sexual minorities from a list of groups which member nations were called on to protect from extrajudicial killings.

Here's El Tiempo newspaper's guide to Chapinero's gay culture.

Iglesia de Lourdes, Chapinero's centerpiece

Kenneth Cole and McDonald's. What country are we in, anyway?

A new sight in Bogotá: A female couple walks the street.

Located in north Bogotá, Chapinero is mostly upper middle class and includes La Zona Rosa, an expensive, American-style nightlife and shopping area.

Chic, fashion and money.

A historical home in the midst of Chapinero: once the home of  a military hero of the revolution against Spain.
Perhaps a half century ago, this area was still countryside and fincas.

Chapinero fashion

Eros, one of the neighborhood's many 'love motels.'

Chapinero has its own red light district, or 'zona de tolerancia.' Tarjeteros on streetcorners hand out cards like these. Most strip clubs, of course, double as brothels, whether legally or not. I once had a neighbor who actually managed one of these places. He said that many of the girls who worked there were university students paying for their educations. He said that others were married, but that their husbands actually didn't know what they did for a living. Undoubtedly, my neighbor told me only the 'positive' side of the business, and there must be lots of exploitation and child prostitution as well. 


More Chapinero scenes: the man who begs with dogs and the musicians' beach.

By Mike Ceaser, of Bogotá Bike Tours

Gay Rights March

Today, June 27, Bogota gays held their pride march. As in other years, it was colorful, flamboyant, and noisy, and undoubtedly offensive to some people.

But the annual event receives the city's endorsement, and Bogotá's leftist mayors have traditionally participated.

Bogotá, incidentally, has a gay neighborhood, Chapinero, and laws which are surprisingly progressive for a traditionally conservative, very Catholic nation: Same-sex couples can register civil unions, inherit from each other and receive each other's pensions.

Even more paradoxical, perhaps, is the fact that Colombia's supposedly revolutionary neighbors, Ecuador, Venezuela and Bolivia, haven't taken such progressive steps.

Colombia's most prominent organization advocating for rights for sexual minorities is Colombia Diversa.

This blog written by Mike Ceaser, of Bogota Bike Tours